What is a pore?
Most of the pores visible to the eye on the skin surface are the shared opening of a hair follicle and the oil gland attached to it. The sebum produced by the oil glands reaches the surface through this opening and protects the skin. On the nose, forehead and inner part of the cheeks, where oil glands are numerous and large, pores are naturally more noticeable.
Enlarged pores are not a medical problem. Nor is there an agreed, precise criterion for 'enlarged pores' in the medical literature; assessment is based largely on appearance. Pore size and density vary markedly from person to person, and also between different ethnic backgrounds.
Why do pores look large?
A review examining the subject lists the three main causes of the appearance of enlarged pores as follows: high sebum production, reduced elasticity of the skin around the pore, and increased hair follicle volume. Other factors also play a part:
- Oily skin type: as sebum production increases, the pore opening becomes more noticeable. This is largely related to genetic make-up and hormones.
- Blockage: a pore filled with sebum, dead skin cells and cosmetic residue widens and looks dark.
- Sun damage and age: as the collagen and elastin support surrounding the pore decreases, the pore opening slackens and looks elongated and wider.
- Acne: recurrent spots block the pores and over time can affect the surrounding tissue.
- Hormones: puberty, the menstrual cycle and the effect of male hormones can alter oil production.
- Skin care habits: pore-clogging products, harsh scrubbing and frequent squeezing can cause irritation and make pores look more noticeable.
It matters which cause predominates in a given person. Although the pores may look the same in young skin with marked oiliness and in skin that has lost its elasticity through sun damage, the approach is different.
How realistic is the expectation that 'pores close'?
There is no muscle around pores to open and close them. For this reason, the idea that hot steam 'opens' pores and that cold water or ice 'closes' them is not correct. Applying cold can make the skin look tighter for a short time; hot water, on the other hand, can irritate the skin and make pores more noticeable.
The number of pores cannot be changed, and pores cannot be removed. The realistic goal is to make pores less conspicuous by reducing blockage, balancing oiliness and preserving the support of the skin around the pore. The improvement achieved is usually modest and is maintained for as long as the care is continued. Some of the products promoted as 'pore-closing' or 'pore-erasing' simply make the surface look smooth temporarily.
What can help in daily care?
- Wash your face twice a day with lukewarm water and a mild cleanser; do not scrub.
- Choose products stated not to clog pores (non-comedogenic) or oil-free products.
- Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor of at least 30 every day; sun damage reduces the support around the pore.
- Do not squeeze pores or pick at them with your nails or with tools; this can lead to irritation and scarring.
- Avoid harsh, gritty scrubs and products that burn or sting your skin.
- Remove make-up before going to bed.
The small grey or yellowish dots seen at regular intervals on the nose are often not blackheads but the appearance of the normal oil channel inside the pore. When squeezed, they fill up again within a short time; this is to be expected, and squeezing them again and again does more harm than good.
Pores are not structures that open and close, and they cannot be removed; the realistic goal is for them to look less noticeable. Gentle cleansing, sun protection and products chosen on a physician’s advice are usually the first step.
Dr. Hamza GemiciMedical Director, DoktorClub · Aesthetic Medicine Physician
Methods supported by evidence, and their levels of evidence
Most of the studies on enlarged pores are small, short and use different methods of measurement. For this reason the evidence is not considered strong for any of the methods below; the table is intended to place the methods in relation to one another.
| Method | What it targets | State of the evidence | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Topical retinoids (tretinoin, tazarotene, adapalene; non-prescription retinol) | Reduce blockage and improve the quality of sun-damaged skin | Moderate: improvement in the appearance of pores has been reported in studies of sun damage and acne; there are few studies aimed directly at pores | Can cause redness, dryness and peeling; not used during pregnancy or breastfeeding |
| Cleansers and products containing salicylic acid | Dissolve the plug inside the pore | Moderate: shown in studies to clear blockage | Can be drying; used less often if irritation occurs |
| Products containing niacinamide | May affect oiliness and the appearance of the surface | Limited: small studies | Usually well tolerated |
| Chemical peels (glycolic acid, salicylic acid and similar) | Reduce blockage and renew the surface | Limited: small and mostly uncontrolled studies | Repeat treatment is needed to maintain the effect; risk of pigmentation in darker skin |
| Fractional laser, radiofrequency microneedling and similar energy-based procedures | Aim to increase the collagen support around the pore | Limited: improvement reported in small studies; little long-term data | Risk of redness, swelling, pigmentation and, rarely, scarring |
| Oral medicines (medicines with hormonal effects, isotretinoin) | Reduce oil production | Limited: little direct evidence for pores | Only on a physician’s decision where there is a medical need such as acne; they have serious side effects and restrictions relating to pregnancy |
| Botulinum toxin into the skin, mesotherapy mixtures and similar treatments | To reduce oiliness and the appearance of pores | Evidence limited; at the research stage | The data are insufficient to recommend them as a standard treatment |
Retinoids and acid-containing products can make the skin more sensitive to the sun; sun protection should not be neglected while using these products. Which prescription product is used, and how often, is decided by the physician after an examination. For more information on the procedures, see the articles “Chemical Peels: What They Are, Who They Suit and What Recovery Involves”, “Fractional Laser: How Suitable Is It for Acne Scars, Wrinkles and Skin Texture?” and “Radiofrequency Skin Tightening and Radiofrequency Microneedling: What Can You Expect?”.
Pore strips, clay masks and suction cleansing devices can temporarily reduce the build-up inside the pore; however, they do not change pore diameter, and when used often or harshly they can cause irritation and make thread veins more noticeable. Using a needle roller at home is not recommended because of the risk of infection and scarring.
Enlarged pores, or something else?
Behind an appearance taken to be enlarged pores there is sometimes another, treatable skin condition. The distinction is made by examination.
| Appearance | What it may be | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Noticeable pores on the nose and cheeks that cause no pain and have looked similar for years | Structural enlarged pores | No need to seek advice on health grounds; if it bothers you, you can discuss care and options with a physician |
| Blackheads and whiteheads, red spots | Acne | See a dermatologist; when acne is treated, the appearance of the pores usually improves too |
| Pitted marks left behind after spots | Acne scars | See a dermatologist; the approach is different from that for pores |
| Redness in the centre of the face, visible vessels, thickening of the skin on the nose | Rosacea | See a dermatologist |
| A single enlarged pore with a dark plug that keeps growing, or a raised area, sore or bleeding around it | A skin lesion that needs to be assessed | See a dermatologist without delay |
On these subjects, the articles “Acne Scars: Types, Treatment Options and Realistic Expectations” and “Rosacea: Symptoms, Triggers and Treatment Options” may help.
See a physician in these situations
- If oiliness and the prominence of pores have increased over a short time; especially if, in women, this is accompanied by irregular periods, increased hair growth on the face or body, or hair loss
- If you have painful, inflamed spots or acne that leaves scars
- If a single pore or raised area is growing, bleeding or not healing
- If severe redness, blistering, crusting or dark patches have developed after a product you used or a procedure you had
Realistic expectations
- Pores cannot be eliminated; the goal is for them to look less noticeable.
- Improvement is usually modest and appears over weeks and months; when care is stopped, the previous appearance largely returns.
- The effect of procedures also lessens over time; because oil production and ageing continue, repeat treatment may be needed.
- Comparisons made up close, in a magnifying mirror or with filtered photographs do not reflect the real appearance; smooth, poreless skin is not a realistic goal.
- Be cautious about products and treatments that claim to close pores in a short time.
Questions to ask your physician
- Is what I have structural enlarged pores, or another condition such as acne, acne scars or rosacea?
- Is the cause that predominates in my case oiliness, or sun damage and loss of elasticity?
- What kind of cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen would suit my skin type?
- Is a product containing a retinoid suitable for me; how should I start, and how long should I use it?
- How strong is the evidence for the procedure you recommend with regard to the appearance of pores?
- How much change can I realistically expect, and how long will it last?
- Does my skin colour increase the risk of pigmentation with this procedure?
- I am planning a pregnancy or am breastfeeding; which products should I avoid?
Frequently asked questions
Do pores close?
No. There is no muscle that opens and closes pores, and pores cannot be removed. When blockage is reduced and the skin’s support is preserved, they can look less noticeable.
Does steam open pores and cold water close them?
This is a common belief, but it is not correct. Steam and lukewarm water can soften the build-up inside the pore; cold water can make the skin look tighter for a short time. Neither changes pore diameter; very hot water, meanwhile, can irritate the skin.
Are enlarged pores hereditary?
The size of the oil glands and skin type are largely related to genetic make-up. That said, sun damage, age, acne and skin care habits also affect the appearance.
Do blackhead strips work?
Strips can temporarily remove part of the build-up inside the pore; they do not change pore diameter, and the build-up forms again within a short time. Frequent use can cause irritation in sensitive skin.
Does washing oily skin often make pores smaller?
No. Gentle cleansing twice a day is enough. Washing more often or harshly can irritate the skin and make pores look more noticeable.
Are creams containing retinoids good for pores?
Retinoids reduce blockage and improve the quality of sun-damaged skin; a modest improvement in the appearance of pores has been reported in studies. They can cause irritation and are not used during pregnancy or breastfeeding; prescription ones should be used on a physician’s advice.
Does laser get rid of pores?
No. There are small studies reporting an improvement in the appearance of pores with some energy-based procedures; however, the evidence is limited, the effect is modest and it may lessen over time.
Why do pores become more noticeable with age?
With sun damage and age, the collagen and elastin support surrounding the pore decreases; the pore opening slackens and looks wider and elongated. Regular sun protection helps to slow this process.
Sources
- What can treat large facial pores? — American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)
- Facial Pores: Definition, Causes, and Treatment Options (Lee SJ et al.). PMID: 26918966 — Dermatologic Surgery, 2016
- Enlarged facial pores: an update on treatments (Dong J, Lanoue J, Goldenberg G). PMID: 27529707 — Cutis, 2016
- Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study (Flament F et al.). PMID: 25733918 — Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2015
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety (Mukherjee S et al.). PMID: 18046911 — Clinical Interventions in Aging, 2006
Medical Aesthetics Expert Board
This article has been reviewed by the DoktorClub Medical Aesthetics Expert Board.
