Rumour: “Collagen supplements get rid of wrinkles” — What does the science say?

Short answer: no, there is no strong evidence that collagen supplements get rid of wrinkles. Some small, short-term studies have reported modest improvements in skin hydration and elasticity that could be detected with measuring devices; however, a significant proportion of these studies were funded by manufacturers, and the results vary from study to study. A collagen supplement is not a medicine and does not replace sun protection.

What is collagen, and what happens to it with age?

Collagen is the main structural protein found in the middle layer of the skin, giving the skin its strength. The body produces collagen itself. As we age, this production decreases, and the existing collagen fibres also break down over time.

The sun’s ultraviolet rays markedly speed up this breakdown. A significant part of the wrinkles and loss of elasticity seen in the face is linked to sun damage accumulated over the years. Smoking is also among the factors that harm the structure of collagen.

Does collagen taken by mouth reach the skin?

Collagen taken by mouth is broken down in the digestive system like other proteins. Supplements usually use hydrolysed collagen, that is, collagen peptides that have already been split into small pieces. Some studies have shown that part of these small peptides passes into the blood.

However, it is not right to think that a peptide that passes into the blood goes straight to a wrinkle in the face and repairs it. It has been suggested that these peptides may prompt skin cells to produce collagen; this mechanism is based mostly on laboratory and animal studies, and how far it applies in humans has not been established.

What do the studies show?

Human studies on collagen supplements are generally studies lasting a few months with a limited number of participants. Some of them have reported small differences in skin hydration and elasticity, detected with measuring devices, compared with the group given a placebo. Some reviews that bring these studies together have also reached similar, positive but modest results.

When assessing these results, it is important to know the following limitations:

• A significant proportion of the studies were funded by companies that make or sell the product. There are findings that in independent studies the effect may turn out weaker or unclear.
• The changes measured are mostly small differences detected with devices; it is not clear whether they correspond to a change you could notice in the mirror.
• The products, doses and durations used differ greatly; it is not possible to generalise the results to a single product.
• There are few data on whether the effect lasts after the supplement is stopped.

In short, the current evidence is not enough to say that collagen supplements get rid of wrinkles. It is being debated whether they may make a limited contribution to skin hydration and elasticity in certain people; larger and independent studies are needed on this.

A supplement is not a medicine

Food supplements are placed on the market under a different legal framework from medicines. Unlike medicines, they are not required to prove their effectiveness on wrinkles before going on sale. The content and purity of products, and whether they really contain the amount stated on the label, may also vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

For this reason, before using a supplement, it is advisable to consult your physician or pharmacist, especially in the following situations:

• If you have kidney disease or have been advised to limit your protein intake
• If you are allergic to products of fish, egg or bovine origin (the source of the collagen varies by product)
• If you are pregnant or breastfeeding
• If you take medicines regularly

Steps with stronger evidence

The habit with the most solid evidence for preventing wrinkles is regular sun protection. A randomised study in adults showed that signs of skin ageing progressed less in the group that used a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day than in the group that used it occasionally. Staying away from smoking is also important for skin health.

For information on physician-administered methods aimed at skin quality, see our article “Skin Booster Injections”, and for treatments aimed at volume loss, our article “Hyaluronic Acid Filler”. The link between the sun and pigment spots on the skin is explained separately in the article “Dark Spots and Melasma”. Which approach is suitable for you should be assessed through an examination.

Conclusion

The claim that collagen supplements get rid of wrinkles goes far beyond the current scientific evidence. Although some small studies show limited changes in skin hydration and elasticity, most of these studies are industry-funded and the results are not consistent. If you are thinking of taking a supplement, it is advisable to do so with realistic expectations and after consulting a physician who knows your health; sun protection should be continued in any case.